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Andres Pico Adobe

In the Los Angeles community of Mission Hills, standing in the midst of a two-and-a-half-acre park shaded by stately eucalyptus and olive trees is the oldest home in the San Fernando Valley. Built in 1834, this restored structure is a fine example an early nineteenth century Monterey- style adobe ranch house. Chalky white plaster covers the thirty inch thick adobe walls and the sloped roof is topped with red terra cotta tiles as are the lengthy corredores (porches) along the front and the rear of the house. This ancient building has the uniquely modern feature of wrought iron security bars outside every window. Although a sad commentary about the present environment of this landmark, the bars are tasteful and do not overly detract from the attractiveness of the adobe. Actually, in the days of the ranchero, it was not uncommon for remote haciendas to have iron barred windows. They served as added protection against hostile Indian attacks or vicious bandidos (bandits).

Located at 10940 Sepulveda Boulevard, it is known as the Andres Pico Adobe, named after General Andres Pico, brother of Pio Pico, the last Mexican Governor of California. Although named after General Pico, there was no account of him ever living there. He did, however, lease and later own the land on which the house stood. In 1873, his son, Romulo Pico lived in the adobe until the late 1890s. Before the Picos occupied the territory, a native son of Spain by the name of Eulogio de Celis came into possession of nearly the entire San Fernando Valley in 1846. At the time he was a merchant from Los Angeles and it was possibly he that was the first to use the adobe as a residence.

Obscure Beginnings

The origin of the [Andres Pico] adobe and the intended use of the structure is a bit unclear. Due to the close proximity to Mission San Fernando Rey de Espaa, (a quarter mile southeast of the Mission), it is reasonable to believe it may have been part of the Mission complex. According to old maps, it was situated near the middle of one of the Mission's vineyards. The original section of the adobe was possibly constructed in 1834 by neophytes from the Mission. Earlier that year, the Mexican government secularized all of the California missions and distributed their enormous acreage to private ownership. These early builders were of a Shoshonean tribe and were the first inhabitants of the San Fernando Valley.

The Mission San Fernando, named for King Ferdinand III; the canonized thirteenth century ruler of Spain. It was founded on September 9, 1797. Immediately upon the establishment of the Mission, Father Fermin de Lasuen began baptizing and converting the local Indians to Christianity. From this point on, these natives of the valley became known as "Fernandenos", thus belonging to the San Fernando Mission parish.

When Fernandeno laborers began construction of the Pico adobe, they probably were not acting under orders from mission padres. There are no known mission records of this building. The original structure was a single story, forty-foot long adobe with a single room. This room is now the "sala" or living room. Tiles and other building materials from the mission were used in its construction. Historians speculate that the building may have been either a storage house, tool shed, or a house for mission laborers or the mayordomo. The mayordomo was the manager the mission, responsible for it operation. The author suggests that it may have been a winery, being that it was surrounded by vineyards and contained only one large room.

The San Fernando Mission was allowed over 120,000 acres of land for farming and grazing from the Spanish government. The mission system prospered under Spanish rule, but, when Mexico won her independence from Spain in 1822, the new regime was determined to confiscate the much envied mission assets through secularization. The San Fernando Mission was able to retain the majority of its acreage for nearly ten years. In 1845, Don Andres Pico leased the entire San Fernando Valley, which was 118,000 acres, to graze his cattle. The lease included the adobe in the mission vineyard.

Don Andres Pico

General Andres Pico
Photo: San Fernando Valley Historical Society

Andres Pico was a remarkable figure in early California history. He was a soldier, revolutionary, landowner, politician, military commander, California Ranger, State Senator, and an owner of a newspaper. He began his fascinating life in 1810, when he was born in the pueblo of San Diego. His father was Jose Maria Pico and his mother was Maria Eustaquia Lopez from Sonora, Mexico. Santiago de la Cruz Pico, his grandfather, was a soldier who came to California in 1775 as an escort to the Juan Bautista de Anza expedition. Pico's uncles, Javier and Miguel Pico, were granted Rancho San Jose de Nuestra de Alta Garcia y Simi in 1795. At 113,000 acres it was the largest land grant in the state. This area now encompasses all of Simi Valley in Ventura County.

Jose Maria Pico was a soldier in the Royal Army. He came to California in 1782, serving as a sergeant at the San Diego Presidio. Between 1805 and 1818, he was transferred to the detachment at Mission San Gabriel, where he was promoted to alferez (second lieutenant). Jose Maria Pico died at the mission in 1819. He was survived by his wife, his six daughters: Concepcion, Estefana, Jacinta, Isidora, Tomas and Feliciana; and his three sons: Pio, Jose, and Andres. After his father's death, eighteen year old Pio Pico brought his mother and the rest of the family back to San Diego.

In San Diego, Pio Pico was the proprietor of a saloon, then a general store, which prospered nicely. Young Andres Pico may have worked with his older brother in these early business ventures. From 1836 until 1838, Andres Pico served as receptor, or receiver of customs, at San Diego Harbor. At this time he began a political career when he represented the pueblo of San Diego as an elector. He traveled to Monterey where he participated in the primary elections in October 1836. Earlier that year, he got his start in the ranching business when he was placed in charge of the 8,922 acre Rancho Jamul. Located twenty-five miles east of San Diego, the rancho was granted to his brother, Pio Pico, in 1829.

Some time in the early 1830s, Andres became a soldier, carrying on a family tradition started by his grandfather. By 1839, he had promoted rather quickly and achieved the rank of Alferez while stationed at the San Diego Presidio. Although Pico was a an officer in the military, he was known to participate in several rebellions against some tyrannical Provincial Governors appointed by Mexican rulers. Due to California's remoteness from the "Mother Country", Californios (Spanish Californians) made every effort to be self-sustaining and usually resented natives of the Mexican Republic governing them. From 1829 until the American occupation, revolts were a common way of life in California.

In 1831, Andres Pico took part in his first revolution, which coincidentally was lead by his brother, Pio Pico, and his future brother-in-law, Jose Antonio Carrillo . Their adversary was Lieutenant Colonel Manuel Victoria, the Governor. Victoria was the military commander of Baja California when he accepted the appointment to Governor of Alta California in 1830. As soon as he arrived in the capitol at Monterey he attempted to assume sole power as a military dictator. He refused to convene the Assembly, abolished all local ayuntamientos (town councils), and imprisoned anyone opposing his rule. When the Governor received word that Jose Antonio Carrillo was plotting a revolt against him, he ordered Carrillo, Pio Pico and American merchant, Abel Stearns, to be exiled to Mexico. Then he had Vincente Sanchez, a devoted ally and alcalde (mayor) of Los Angeles, arrest and incarcerate fifty of the pueblo's leading citizens. Among those jailed was Andres Pico.

In the meantime, the exiles arrived in San Diego while en route to Mexico. There, they joined forces with Juan Bandini and conspired a rebellion against Victoria. It was late November when they recruited about 150 men and marched north to liberate the political prisoners in Los Angeles. In Monterey, Victoria received intelligence information regarding the move on Los Angeles. He led a small army destined for the southern town to quash the insurrection. The rebels reached Los Angeles in early December and freed those who were unjustly jailed. Victoria and thirty of his troops, arrived at the San Fernando Mission, where he planed to raid the pueblo. The rebels, who had gained additional supporters in Los Angeles, rode northward to confront the attack. There is no doubt that Andres Pico rode with the rebels.

On December 5, 1831, the two forces met in the Cahuenga Pass between the pueblo and the San Fernando Valley. The battle commenced near what is today the Hollywood Bowl. It was a minor conflict that was quick in duration and resulted in a low number of casualties. Each side suffered one fatality and the Governor, himself, was wounded seriously. Oddly, the rebels inflicted the most damage, as little as it was, yet were the first to leave the battlefield. This gave Victoria a military victory, but that was all. The injured Victoria, was carried to the San Gabriel Mission for medical treatment. He thought he was dying and lost the desire to fight for his title. Manuel Victoria abdicated the governorship and after recovering in San Diego, he departed for Mexico. Pio Pico took over as temporary governor, serving for twenty days until his replacement, Jose Figueroa, arrived from Mexico . Pico would later hold the office again in 1845.

Throughout the turbulent 1830s divisive political philosophies of the partisans of the Monterey-influenced government and the insurgently inclined Southern Californians frequently caused turmoil between the two factions. A highly principled Andres Pico, often took the lead on behalf of the southern movement and as a result was jailed on several occasions. In 1838, he was involved in a revolt against Governor Juan B. Alvarado. Jose Antonio Carrillo and his brother, Carlos Carrillo lead a movement in Los Angeles to create an independent California Republic. From Monterey, Alvarado dispatched his military enforcer, Jose Castro, to put down the rebellion in the south. After Castro's victory at the Battle of San Buenaventura in March 1838, he sent Captain Luis Espinosa ahead to Los Angeles to seek out leaders of the insurrection. Again, Andres and Pio Pico, along with Jose Antonio were arrested and taken north as prisoners. After serving mild sentences, the three men were released. Just few months later, on December 22, 1838, Andres Pico was arrested again in San Diego at the hacienda of Juan Bandini. The charge was conspiracy to plan another revolution.

The Pico brothers were highly respected and their reputations were known throughout California, so they were never too severely punished for their continuous rebelliousness. On the contrary, they were rewarded by Alvarado, who was able to overlook their political differences. Andres was promoted by Alvarado to the military rank of alferez and placed in command of the company at Mission San Luis Rey. Then, from 1839 to 1842, Alvarado granted several large land grants to both Andres and Pio Pico. These genial acts by the governor may have been offered to the Picos as some sort of incentive, or bribe, to solicit their loyalty and quell any further revolts.

During the Alvarado administration, the Picos were granted the 133,440-acre Rancho Santa Margarita y Las Flores next to Ex-Mission San Juan Capistrano. They also acquired the tract surrounding the old mission. On June 2, 1840, they both received a provisional grant to Rancho Temecula. Andres temporarily managed this rancho located eighty-five miles north of San Diego. Later in the year, he personally received eleven leagues of land in Sacramento County. This was known as Rancho Arroyo Seco. The Picos were rapidly building a huge ranching empire and by the early 1850s, they were among the largest landowners in the state. As for Alvarado, there were no more revolts against him for the remainder of his term.

In 1842, Manual Micheltorena assumed the Governor's seat in Alta California. By the end of 1843, he needed $120,000 to balance the provincial budget for the next year. Drastic cuts were made including a one-half pay reduction for members of the military. The Governor selected Andres Pico to go to Mazatlan in an attempt to obtain $80,000 from Mexican officials in order to ease the budget crisis. He left Monterey in January 1844 aboard the schooner California. It is unknown if Pico was successful in his mission, but, upon his return in July of that year , he was promoted to Captain of the "Defensores de la Patria" . He sent to command the First Squadron at the San Diego Presidio.

In the latter part of 1844, an uprising in Northern California was waged against Governor Micheltorena. The leaders of this insurgence was Ex-Governor Juan B. Alvarado and his military ally, Jose Castro. Micheltorena ordered Captain Andres Pico to activate the militia and put down the coup d'etat. Pio Pico and Jose Antonio Carrillo were also called to assist in organizing forces. Although most of the southern citizens claimed loyalties to Mexico, they refused the call to arms against these northern rebels, unless financial compensation was provided.

On the night of January 20, 1845, Alvarado sent a detachment of fifty-six armed and mounted volunteers, lead by Joaquin de la Torre, to capture Los Angeles. The raid upon the unsuspecting pueblo was accomplished quickly and the Pico brothers, along with Jose Carrillo, were taken into custody. The prisoners were brought to Alvarado and Castro. Castro, a long time rival of Andres Pico, was intent on having him shot. But, Alvarado dissuaded Castro from having Pico executed. Alvarado gave his captives an ultimatum; either join his revolution, or be killed. Obligated to join the revolt, the three were given leadership positions and were able to raise an army of 400 men at Los Angeles.

From Monterey, the Governor led his own army of 400 south to enforce the fidelity of the people to himself and Mexico. On February 20, 1845 the two factions encountered each other in Cahuenga Pass, near the same site of revolt against Governor Victoria thirteen years earlier. This military engagement was perceived as farcical episode and was completely devoid of human blood. The night before the battle, many of Micheltorena's men got drunk from brandy provided by Americans living at the pueblo. By morning, the Americans convinced a substantial number of Micheltorena supporters to transfer allegiances to the rebel cause. For the next two days, the two armies exchanged cannon volleys and sporadic gunfire, but the distance between them was too great and nearly all projectiles fell short. When the conflict was over, the casualties were tallied: Micheltorena had one horse killed and the rebels lost one mule. Micheltorena surrendered on February 22, 1845 and boarded a ship in San Pedro bound for Mexico. Castro fearing that Micheltorena was actually returning north to regain power, sent Captain Andres Pico with a small garrison to Monterey. On March 5, 1845, Pico arrived in Monterey and assumed command of the capitol city.

After Micheltorena's departure, Pio Pico took over as governor and was later confirmed by Mexico. Pico chose Los Angeles as the new capitol. The capitol building was a simple adobe located on the east side of Main Street immediately north of Commercial Street. Later. this became the site of the Bella Union Hotel. By this time, Andres Pico owned an adobe town house situated only a few yards north of the capitol building on Main Street. This single story adobe casa stood adjacent to the old plaza church cemetery and faced east toward the center of the plaza.

On June 30, 1845, Governor Pico appointed his brother, Andres, and a Spaniard named Juan Manso, as commissioners to visit all of the missions in Alta California and inventory their assets. The Governor wanted the value of mission system assessed to see what could be gained if he sold them to private citizens. After travelling throughout California, the task was completed by August 1845. Pico and Manso were paid handsomely for their efforts.

Rancho Ex-Mission San Fernando

On December 4, 1845, Pio Pico permitted Andres Pico and Juan Manso to lease the remaining land holdings belonging to the Ex-Mission San Fernando. They were given a nine-year lease with the option to buy the property. They paid $1,120 in rent on a yearly basis for 118,000 acres, essentially the entire San Fernando Valley. Andres Pico already kept a large herd of cattle up in the Antelope Valley, but he desired more acreage and the ex-mission property was much closer to his home in the pueblo of Los Angeles. When Don Andres acquired this land, the single room adobe near the mission was included. It is unknown if he ever utilized the structure in any way. It was too small and crude to fit his needs as a ranch house.

Pico preferred to live at the mission complex adjoining the church and transferred the spacious convento (convent) into a grand hacienda. The convento, or the "Long Building" as it was commonly named, was considered to be one of the most pretentious adobes in all of California. Walls four feet thick stretched 243 feet lengthwise and were sixty feet wide. There were twenty-two Roman style arches along the southern corredor (a covered porch). Here, Don Andres enjoyed entertaining many guests, who were treated to lavish fandangos and bullfights in the courtyard.

On May 18, 1846, Mexico declared war on the United States. Governor Pico needed to organize an army to defend California, but the defense budget was bankrupt. Out of desperation, he put up the whole San Fernando Valley as collateral for a private loan to help equip an army. Pio Pico arranged a deal with Don Eulogio de Celis, who was a family friend of the Picos. De Celis arrived from Spain in 1836 and became an affluent merchant in Los Angeles. He owned a town house in the pueblo on Main Street, directly across from Pico's capitol building. Eulogio de Celis paid the bargain price of $14,000 for 118,858 acres of the ex-mission tract. This figured to about eleven cents an acre. Pico gave De Celis a provisional deed to the land on June 17, 1846.

The deed included several conditions. First, Eulogio de Celis was not able to take possession for eight months. This was done to give the government the chance to redeem the property if they raised enough money. Second, the mission church and its appurtenances were to be reserved for priests. Third, the former mission Indians, of which approximately 100 were left, had to be cared for and be allowed to continue to plant crops. Finally, De Celis was to honor the lease held by Andres Pico and Juan Manso. De Celis and Andres Pico were good friends and they would often go on hunting trips together in the Antelope Valley area.

The eight-month grace period passed and Don Eulogio acquired full possession of Rancho Ex-Mission San Fernando. It included all of the valley, which was surrounded by the San Gabriel, San Fernando, Santa Susanna and Santa Monica mountain ranges. Two smaller ranchos; Los Encinos (4,460 acres) and El Escorpion (1,109 acres) were omitted from the original mission grant. Today the communities of Sylmar, Mission Hills, Granada Hills, Porter Ranch, Chatsworth, Canoga Park, Woodland Hills, Winnetka, West Hills, Northridge, Reseda, Sepulveda, Van Nuys, Sherman Oaks, Studio City, North Hollywood, Pacoima and the city of San Fernando all occupy the vast acreage owned by Eulogio de Celis.

De Celis went into ranching and raised cattle. His cattle was free to spread out and roam throughout the valley plains. Don Eulogio thought the adobe, standing a quarter mile from the mission and passed over as a home by Andres Pico, was suitable for his residence. He moved into the adobe structure after making renovations. He added on to the adobe and expanded it to its present length. It served as his home for the next seven years. Just prior to the war, Andres Pico acquired a half interest of two adjoining ranchos along the Los Angeles-Orange County Line. They were Rancho La Habra, which consisted of 6,698 acres, and Rancho Los Coyotes, which he shared 48,806 acres. Don Andres was one of largest landowners in the state.

Pico and the Mexican War

During the Mexican War, Andres Pico played a significant role in the California theater. On August 13, 1846, American troops commanded by Commodore Robert F. Stockton captured the pueblo of Los Angeles. Leading citizens of the pueblo were placed on parole by the commodore as they promised not to take up arms against the Americans. Andres Pico was among those placed under these conditions. Prior to Stockton's arrival, Pio Pico fled to Mexico. California was now under United States military authority. Stockton considering the conquest of California complete, sailed to Monterey. He left Lieutenant Archibald Gillespie in charge of a small garrison to hold Los Angeles. Gillespie proved to be a poor choice in command. He imposed Marshal Law and created unreasonable restrictions, which caused him to become unpopular among the proud Angelinos.

Plans for a revolt against the invaders were soon underway. Guns, ammunition, and a small cannon with a three-inch bore known as "Old Woman's Gun" were collected from the surrounding areas. On September 24, 1846, the Californios established a camp east of the Los Angeles River on a hill known as Paredon Blanco (White High Plain). At the campsite, Jose Maria Flores was chosen as Comandante General, the supreme military commander of Mexican Forces in California. Second in command was Major General Jose Maria Carrillo and Captain Andres Pico was appointed third in command as Comandante de Escuadron (Squad Commander). They issued a proclamation calling upon the citizens to fight.

Ignoring their promise to Stockton, the three sent an army to the pueblo and surrounded Gillespie's headquarters. Gillespie had commandeered the capitol building on Main Street for his headquarters. The Americans barricaded themselves in the adobe for a several days. The Californios took a position upon a hill west of Gillespie's location. This later became the site of Fort Hill at the junction of Hill Street and the Hollywood Freeway. General Flores fired a report from Old Woman's Gun and demanded Gillespie to surrender. Gillespie complied as long as he and his garrison could leave unmolested. He was allowed to retreat to San Pedro where he boarded a ship. Gillespie stayed anchored off San Pedro for two weeks waiting for reinforcements. Stockton sent Captain William Mervine, who arrived in early October. The combined forces of Gillespie and Mervine attempted to retake Los Angeles. They were stopped by the army of General Carrillo, who defeated the American advance at the Battle of Dominguez Hills on October 9, 1846. The Americans retreated again to San Pedro to await reinforcements from Stockton. The commodore, himself, arrived later that month. After deciding against a third attempt on Los Angeles, he regrouped his forces and sailed to San Diego.

General Flores anticipated that Stockton would lead a full-scale advance northward overland from San Diego. The General sent Captain Pico south on a reconnaissance mission to monitor the expected advancement. Pico and his troops left Los Angeles on November 22, 1846. Flores received an intelligence report that a small detachment of soldiers led by Lieutenant Gillespie left San Diego headed for Santa Ysabel on a mission to secure horses for a large land assault. Flores sent word ahead to Pico to head off Gillespie before he returned to San Diego. Pico patrolled the San Jose Valley region, but was unable to locate the Gillespie's party. Captain Pico remained in the south and established headquarters at Mission San Luis Rey. Here Pico waited for General Flores and the main body of Californio troops to intercept Stockton's move north.

Upon hearing information that Lieutenant Gillespie and his troops left San Diego on December 3, 1846, Pico mobilized his own forces. On December 5th Pico camped at an Indian village known as San Pasqual, about twenty-eight miles northeast of San Diego. Twenty men from Pico's party became separated from the main group, leaving Pico with only eighty men. Indian scouts came to the Pico camp with accounts that a large body of American soldiers were coming from the east. Pico chose to disregard this report because he only expected Gillespie and approximately thirty-five men approaching from the south. However, the Indians were correct in what they saw. About 120 men from the First Dragoons of the United States Army, under the command of General Stephen Watts Kearny were approaching from the east.

Back in the summer of 1846, Kearny completed the conquest of New Mexico. On September 25, 1846, after receiving a commission to the rank of brigadier general, he was assigned to assist with the United States campaign in California. He immediately left Santa Fe and headed west. After over two months of marching in hot, unforgiving, desert terrain, Kearny and his Dragoons reached Santa Ysabel on December 4, 1846. It was here that Kearny learned the position of the enemy and the following day marched westward to meet Gillespie and his men at Rancho Santa Maria. The combined forces continued marching ten miles through heavy rain and set up camp in a wide oak grove, just ten miles east of Pico's camp.

The Battle of San Pasqual

Kearny, instead of allowing his weary army to rest after their long journey, decided to seek out and engage the enemy at once. On the evening of December 5th, he sent Lieutenant Hammond and three men on ahead as scouts. Hammond found the position of Pico's army, but were noticed before leaving, thus foiling any attempt at a surprise attack. At two o'clock in the morning of December 6, 1846, Kearny mobilized his force and marched toward Pico's camp. The freezing rainfall continued and soaked the American's gunpowder, rendering it useless. Just prior to dawn, the Americans reached a small mountain overlooking the campfires of the Californios. The conflict that ensued between Kearny and Pico became known as the Battle of San Pasqual.

The Americans forces outnumbered those of the Mexicans. The Californios were poorly armed. Their arsenal included a few horse pistols, flintlock muskets and even some blunderbusses. Ammunition was scarce and what they had was of a poor grade. The primary weapons of Pico's army was the primitive lance made of willow, laurel or ash. These lances were eight to ten foot long poles with blades affixed to the ends. Noted for their excellent horsemanship, the mounted Californios armed with lances would charge their enemy like medieval knights engaged in a joust. Furthermore, the Mexicans had stronger and faster horses. The Americans, with their powder useless, had to result to the use of steel sabers, which were considerably shorter than the Mexican lances. Most of the Americans were on foot, while the ones mounted had tired old mules.

The Americans descended the mountain and as soon as they reach the flat land, Kearny ordered the first charge of about twenty men. Pico held his ground and ordered every gun fired. Soon, Kearny's main body of troops entered the battlefield. Upon seeing this advance, Captain Pico ordered his calvary of lancers to gallop in the opposite direction. Captain Benjamin Moore led the pursuit on behalf of the Americans. After a half-mile retreat, Pico commanded a sudden about-face and charged at the pursuing gringos. With tremendous impact the two forces clashed violently in hand-to-hand combat. The battle raged for only ten minutes with Pico's lightning fast calvary of lancers totally dominating. As soon as Kearny wheeled his howitzers on the field, the quick moving Californios charged the gunners and captured the artillery. Picos troops employed effective "hit and run" tactics, which were no match for their opponents. Gillespie deployed a cannon, which was kept to the rear of the American advance. Gillespie, although seriously wounded, fired the roaring gun. Pico, realizing that his obsolete weaponry would be ineffective against a modern functioning artillery piece, called for a retreat. When all was done, the Americans suffered heavy casualties, nineteen killed and eighteen wounded. General Kearny was among the injured, suffering two lance wounds.

Although Pico inflicted significant losses upon Kearny's troops and his men were virtually unscathed, he technically lost the Battle of San Pasqual because he was the first to leave the field. The site of this engagement can be located seven miles east of Escondido, California off State Highway 78. Today, the area appears much as it did in 1846.

As the demoralized Americans headed for San Diego they were subjected to periodic guerrilla attacks by Pico's men. Captain Pico sent a frantic message to General Flores in Los Angeles for reinforcements so he could finish off the invaders. But, Flores was unable to assist Pico because the General lost most of his supporters during a revolt against him on December 3rd. Kearny's army made it to San Diego with help from 170 of Commodore Stockton's troops, while a frustrated Andres Pico returned to Los Angeles.

General Pico Surrenders

In Los Angeles, General Flores assigned Captain Pico to lead an army out to the San Fernando Valley to defend the pueblo against a large contingent of Americans advancing from the north. It was Lieutenant Colonel John Charles Fremont and his Buckskin Battalion who was rapidly approaching. Meanwhile, Kearny's gave his men time to recuperate and on December 29, 1846, he and Commodore Stockton left San Diego with 600 men. Their objective was to seize the troublesome pueblo at Los Angeles. General Flores made two futile attempts with his small-disorganized army to defend the pueblo. On January 8, 1847, Flores tried unsuccessfully to stop the Americans at the Battle of San Gabriel and; on the following day, he lost the Battle of La Mesa. Kearny and Stockton went on to take possession of Los Angeles for the final time on January 10, 1847.

Lt. Col. John C. Fremont

General Andes Pico

General Flores held a final meeting with 100 of his troops on the night of January 11th at Rancho San Rafael. This gathering took place at an old oak which until recently stood next to the Catalina Verdugo Adobe at 2211 Bonita Avenue in Glendale. At this site Flores, fearing he would be shot by Stockton if captured, promoted Andres Pico to general, thereby transferring command of the Mexican Forces of California to him. Flores escaped into the night bound for Sonora. While his brother, Pio Pico, held the distinction of being California's last Mexican Governor, Andres Pico was California's last Mexican military leader.

General Pico received word that Fremont and his men arrived at the San Fernando Mission earlier in the day of January 11th. Pico immediately dispatched a message to Fremont's camp in order to arrange a meeting to discuss terms of surrender. Pico, fearing the wrath of Stockton, preferred to capitulate to Fremont with the hope that his terms would be more reasonable then the vengeful commodore. A treaty was drawn up the following day on nearby Rancho Providencia and on January 13, 1847, General Pico and Lieutenant Colonel Fremont signed the Treaty of Cahuenga in a small adobe house at the north end of Cahuenga Pass. This document ended the Mexican War in California. Campo de Cahuenga, the house where the treaty was signed, stands at 3919 Lankershim Boulevard in present day North Hollywood.

A New Way of Life

The transition to American control was difficult for most native Californios and Mexicans, but Andres Pico adapted exceptionally well to this new way of life. Americans admired Pico, even though it was known that he was responsible their embarrassment at San Pasqual. After the war, Andres Pico participated in the Gold Rush of 1849. He led a company of miners along the Mokelumne River in the western Sierra Nevada Range. During a brief period between 1849 and 1850, he kept a small adobe residence at San Jose, California. While in the north, he added another tract of land to his collection: Rancho Moquelamo in Calvaras County. In 1851, Pico was elected to the Assembly of the State of California. In June 1852, Governor John Bigler appointed Pico as one of his military aides in the State Militia. Later that year, he became a presidential elector for the state. Pico also held the position of Federal and State Land Receiver.

In the early 1850s, Southern California was plagued with crime. The murder rate soared in Los Angeles and there was no formally organized law enforcement. A vigilante group known as the California Rangers formed to ebb the tide of lawlessness. The group was California's version of the famed Texas Rangers. Andres Pico joined the Rangers and was placed in charge of mounted lancers made up of native Californios. Over the years he led several posses in pursuit of notorious outlaws. One of his better known exploits with the Rangers occurred in 1857, when he participated in one of the most extensive manhunts in California history. He led a mounted posse of lance wielding Rangers in search of the Flores-Daniel gang. Juan Flores and Pancho Daniel were escapees from San Quentin Prison who led fifty bandidos on a murderous crime spree throughout the state. Pico's men were vital in rounding up the outlaws in the Santa Ana Mountains in Orange County. Pico's leadership skills undoubtedly helped him to secure the appointment to Brigadier General in the California Militia.

During the 1850s, when Andres Pico was not involved in politics and tracking outlaws, he spent the greater part of his time in court regarding matters involving his multiple land interests. He had to present before the United States Land Commission proof of title for each of his land grants from the Mexican era. The cost of land litigation was insurmountable. Additionally, natural calamities, such as drought and floods, took their toll on Pico's cattle herds. During this period, he found time to own and operate a newspaper known as the "Southern Californian". But, this journalistic venture failed in 1857, and Pico lost $10,000. His financial hardships caused him to mortgage most of his property to pay outstanding debts. Due to unusually high interest rates at the time, he was unable to pay his loans and lost much of his land due to foreclosure.

In 1860, Pico was elected to the State Senate. As a senator, he proposed to have five Southern California counties to secede from the rest of the state and be recognized as a federal territory. On February 15, 1859, then Assemblyman Pico, submitted Resolution #22 which called for the withdrawal of the counties of San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, San Bernardino and San Diego from California and create a new political division to be called the Territory of Colorado. The Bill was approved by both the House and the Legislature, but it died in Congress when it was overshadowed by the disputes over the slavery issue and the imminent threat of a civil war. The debate over dividing the state continues to this very day.

In October 1852, Don Eulogio de Celis filed his claim to the entire San Fernando Valley with the United Stated Board of Land Commissioners. He had to prove that the grant issued to him by Governor Pio Pico was authentic. The ex-governor was called in as a witness to the Commission inquiry and testified that the grant was sold to De Celis to help finance the Mexican War. After several years of thorough investigation, the Land Commission confirmed the title and it was subsequently upheld in the U.S. District Court. In 1873, a patent was issued to the heirs of Eulogio de Celis for the 116,858.43 acres of Rancho Ex-Mission de San Fernando. It was the largest single land grant confirmed in California.

Don Eulogio did not live long enough to see official recognition of his grant. In 1853, he returned to Spain and left his attorney, Edward Vischer, in charge of his estate. De Celis never returned to California. He died in the seaport town of Bibao, Spain on January 27, 1869. His family returned to California and his eldest son, Eulogio F. de Celis, was appointed administer of the estate.

In 1854, Pico's nine-year lease to the valley expired. He bought an undivided half interest in Rancho Ex-Mission for $15,000. This purchase made him owner of half of the whole San Fernando Valley, including the mission complex and the adobe house left behind by Don Eulogio. Edward Vischer handled the transaction on behalf of De Celis. Vischer, who was also an artist, developed a long lasting friendship with Pico and was often a guest at his mission converted hacienda.

After a long military and political career, Don Andres decide to settle down at his mission long building and focus his resources on ranching. He continued to graze his live stock in the valley until the drought of the early 1860s and mounting debt caused him to sell his undivided half interest of Rancho Ex-Mission to his brother, Pio Pico. The ex-governor was overwhelmed by financial woes also, and he mortgaged the valley through a New York finance company. In order to meet delinquent mortgage payments, Pico was compelled to sell the rancho to San Fernando Valley Homestead Association. This organization was founded by two Northern Californians named Isaac Lankershim and Isaac N. Van Nuys. Pico received $115,000 for the southern portion of the valley. Proceeds from this sale went toward the construction of the Pico House on the plaza in Los Angeles. This elegant hotel, built in 1870, still stands on North Main Street and Paseo de la Plaza. The sales agreement did not include 1000 acres of land surrounding the old mission or the De Celis Adobe. Andres Pico remained the owner of this property know as the "Pico Reserve".

In 1874, the heirs of Eulogio de Celis sold the northern half of the San Fernando Valley, approximately 56,000 acres, for $80,000. The buyers were George K. Porter and Charles Maclay, two ex-state senators from Northern California. On September 15, 1874, Maclay filed a subdivision map with the Los Angeles County Recorder. The town he developed became the city of San Fernando. Pico Street, in this small city, was named in honor of Don Andres Pico.

In the latter part of Pico's life, he spent much of his time entertaining guests at his home. On the night of April 17, 1874, while Senators Maclay and Porter were overnight guests at Pico's long building, an unexpected visitor dropped by. It was the notorious outlaw Tiburcio Vasquez. Contrary to Pico's tenet as a former lawman, he provided shelter to the wanted bandido. Pico agreed to hide Vasquez, who was being pursued by Sheriff John Rowland, as long as he promised not to attack the new town of San Fernando, in which Pico had an interest. Vasquez escaped the next morning and evaded capture for nearly a month thereafter. He was captured on Rancho La Brea near the Cahuenga Pass on May 14, 1874.

Pico became a pioneer in another endeavor, petroleum. While one of his shepherds was tending a flock in a canyon north of the San Fernando Valley near present day Newhall, he discovered a thick black substance oozing from the ground. Don Andres went out to investigate and determined the substance to be oil. By 1850, he drilled a 300-foot well, which was known to produce thirty barrels a day. Pico constructed a crude still at the site and refined the petroleum into a sort of axle grease, oils for medicinal purposes and a type of kerosene which was used for lighting at the San Fernando Mission. There is no record of Pico producing petroleum-based products for commercial consumption.

The illustrious life of Don Andres Pico came to an end on February 14, 1876. He died at his town house at 203 North Main Street in Los Angeles and was buried the next day. He was a remarkable man of many talents and lived a hearty life. Don Andres never married but was known to have adopted several children. One of his adopted sons, Romulo Pico, inherited the 1000 acres Pico Reserve and the adobe once occupied by Eulogio de Celis.

The Adobe

Andres Pico Adobe - front, side & rear.

Romulo Pico married a woman named Catarina in 1874 and moved into the former De Celis casa. The couple continued to live on the Pico Reserve, which they called "Ranchita Romulo", many years after Don Andres' death. By this time the adobe was larger than the original structure of 1834. Before 1846, the only room was the sala or living room. Sometime between 1846 and 1860, the present dining room and library were added, most likely by De Celis. This addition became the southwest wing as it appears today. After De Celis vacated the property in 1853, it was unknown if the adobe was used for any purpose. In 1873, Romulo and Don Andres found the house in a dilapidated state as a result of abandonment for over twenty years. Romulo was credited for restoring the place and adding a kitchen, two side wings, and an upper level. He placed wooden flooring over the original tile floor. Other Yankee-style woodwork and a shake roof was added. Pico had these upgrades done to the before moving in with his wife.

Catarina & Romulo Pico
Photo: San Fernando Valley Historical Society

Romulo and Catarina lived here for many years before moving to Los Angeles. They kept the adobe after moving and set aside a room, which is now the library, to be used for overnight stays during return visits to the valley. They sold the adobe house in the late 1890s. In the following years it was rented or sold several times to various families, eventually becoming abandoned. While vacant for the first two decades of the twentieth century, the structure deteriorated and was subjected to vagrants and vandals. In time, thieves and scavengers began to pick apart the adobe, including some that dug up the floors and knocked down walls in search of fabled treasure buried there. Also, there were rumors of a mysterious subterranean tunnel extending from the house and the main mission complex, prompting damaging probes by curious individuals.

By 1828, the Pico Adobe was just an empty shell of a building surrounded by tall weeds when a man named Mark Harrington came upon the old site. Doctor Mark Harrington, a noted archeologist from New York, came to California in 1928 to become curator of the Southwest Museum in Highland Park. He and his wife, Endeka, searched for an aged Spanish style adobe casa to restore as their home. The ruins of the Pico Adobe was the ideal place for Harrington's restoration project. Harrington found that the property was owned by members of the Lopez family, early pioneers of the San Fernando Valley. Jose Jesus Lopez purchased the adobe structure some year before. In 1930, the Harringtons bought the remains of the Pico Adobe and thirty acres of the old Pico Reserve from Louisa McAlonen, one of the four living granddaughters of Don Geronimo Lopez . Doctor Harrington, his wife, and son John, lived in a tent on the property while working to restore the adobe as a home.

Dr. Mark R. Harrington
Photo: San Fernando Valley Historical Society

All that was left of the house was exposed adobe walls. The roof had collapsed and most of the woodwork including; support beams, exterior porch trusses, the staircase, door and window frames were missing. As Doctor Harrington cleared brush and debris from the interior and removed the rotted plank flooring from the sala, he discovered the original mission tile floor. It was these tiles, located ten inches beneath the wood floor, that helped Harrington to determine the approximate age of the original structure, which he speculated as being built in 1834, or prior. He uncovered a different type of foundation in the southwest wing indicating that it was added sometime prior to the Pico restoration in 1873. Harrington planned to restore it to look like a typical adobe hacienda that one may have encountered in the 1830s.

The surviving walls of adobe were still stable, so Harrington found no need to reconstructed them. He added four layers adobe brick to the tops of the existing walls. The bricks used for restoration were made in the traditional manner with the earthen materials taken from the grounds at the rear of the adobe. All the woodwork was replaced. The original brick fireplace was replaced in the dining room and another was added in the sala. It is believed that Harrington may have taken some of the unbroken mission tiles of the original floor and placed them in front of the fireplaces and in the kitchen. Some slight alterations were made which included an addition to the north wing, reconstruction of retaining walls enclosing the patio, and annexation of the garage.

Doctor Harrington greatly improved the grounds as well. He planted eucalyptus trees along Sepulveda Boulevard and along the north boundary of the property. Near the front of the adobe, he planted five acres of lemon trees and landscaped the area with numerous varieties fruit trees, vegetables, plants, shrubs and colorful flowers. All that remains today are the eucalyptus and olive trees. The mission's vineyard had long since disappeared. With refurbishment completed in a years time, the Pico Adobe gained the reputation as being one of the outstanding homes in America.

For fifteen years the Harringtons made the Pico Adobe their home, until they found another challenging restoration project to work on as a family. They moved into the San Fernando Mission, occupying a second floor room in the convento or long building, which was the former residence of Don Andres Pico. While working to restore the mission, the Harringtons rented out the Pico Adobe. In 1945, they sold the adobe and the surrounding ranch to their friends, Doctor G.M. Lindblade and his wife.

The Lindblades moved into the landmark house and made several improvements during their residency. They replaced the redwood shake roof with a terra cotta tile roof. The whitewashed interior walls were enhanced with several coats of cement paint. The old whitewash from the ceiling was abraded and substituted with a wood stain finish. The Lindblades sold the property in the early 1950s to Mr. and Mrs. Morris D. Farnell. The Farnells lived there for five years before selling it in 1957 for $57,750. The price was over four times the amount of what the whole San Fernando Valley was worth in 1846.

The North Valley YMCA received enough fund to purchase the adobe and five acres from the Farnells. Hardiman Fowler of San Francisco donated $50,000 to the youth organization to assist with the procurement of the property. The YMCA used the site as their headquarters and transformed some of the rooms of the old adobe into offices and meeting space. By 1965, the YMCA planned to sell half of their land and replaced the adobe with a larger, more modern facility. The San Fernando Valley Historical Society found out about this and led a campaign to save the historic Pico adobe from demolition. For two years the Historical Society was unsuccessful in raising enough money to buy out the YMCA. Finally, in 1968, the City of Los Angeles offered to buy the two and a half acres of land facing Sepulveda Boulevard, which included the adobe. The YMCA retained the rest of the property along Columbus Boulevard. The Historical Society contracted with the City of Los Angeles Department of Parks and Recreation to maintain the grounds and exterior of the adobe building. In 1969, the Andres Pico Adobe was restored to its original splendor and the rooms were filled with late Victorian-era furnishings. Donated china, silver, clothing and various other items of the Victorian period decorated the interior similar to the way it appeared in the days of Romulo and Catarina Pico.

In 1970, the library was dedicated as the Mark R. Harrington Library with the doctor attending the ceremony as the guest of honor. The library was used as Harrington's study when he occupied the house in the 1930s. The following year, the Historical Society suffered a set back when the Sylmar Earthquake struck on February 9, 1971. Measuring 6.6 on the Richter Scale, the large tremor caused substantial damage to the landmark adobe as well as the San Fernando Mission. The Historical Society began the long arduous process of making repairs all over again. The Andres Pico Adobe was eventually restored and continues to be well preserved as a living museum currently open to the public. The site was marked in 1936 by a plaque by the Native Daughters of the Golden West, declaring it California Registered Landmark #362. On September 21, 1962, the City of Los Angeles Cultural Heritage Board declared the adobe Historical Cultural Monument #7.

Today

Author's Note: (The following description of the Andres Pico adobe was written prior to the Northridge Earthquake which occurred on January 15, 1994. The adobe sustained major damage and was closed to the public as of this writing).

Over 160 years old, the Andres Pico Adobe does not show its age. The exterior is exceptionally well kept. The eighteen-inch thick walls are vibrantly white with no noticeable cracks. It is a marvelous example of the Monterey style of adobe architecture, which was not all that common in Southern California. Homes of this type was indicative of ones wealth and status. Throughout the grounds there are several antique items of interest, including a replica of a primitive wooden carreta (a wagon or a cart) used for transportation during the rancho days. At the northeast section of the grounds there is a signpost with three street signs pointing out different nineteenth century roadways that passed through this area. Directionally indicated are the routes of Fort Tejon Road, Butterfield Stage Road and Old Nadeau Road.

While touring the interior of the adobe, note the thickness of the walls. The furniture is late Victorian and reflects the period when the Picos lived here. The sala (living room), the dining room, the bedroom, and the Mark R. Harrington Library is accessible to the public. An exhibit hall on the second level (formerly the upstairs bedrooms) contain antique costumes, photographs, Indian artifacts and other displays. There is also a travelers trunk containing personal articles said to belong to the renowned bandit Triburcio Vasquez. The Andres Pico Adobe is one of the most significant historic structures in the San Fernando Valley. A visit to this museum is one of the best ways to experience the fascinating past of the valley. At 15151 San Fernando Mission Boulevard, the San Fernando Mission is located just two minutes from the Pico Adobe. The mission survives as a great example of architecture from the early Spanish Colonial period of California and like the Andres Pico adobe, it is open to the public.

Andres Pico Adobe  Official Website
10940 Sepulveda Blvd., Mission Hills, CA 91345   Map
818 365-7810

Open the the public
Monday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and every third Sunday. The library is open to the public for research by appointment, call 818 365-7810. Enter the parking lot from Brand Blvd. at its junction with Sepulveda Blvd. Admission is free.

The Adobe is available for special occasions. Please call for details.

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